A STUDY ON
ORGANIC CLOTHING
May-2011
INTRODUCTION
Each year, billions of pounds of synthetic pesticides are used in non-organic cotton production. These pesticides make the way into the soil and water systems, threatening soil, health, clean water supplies, and biodiversity. They also make the way into clothing and textiles, through which people are exposed to toxic chemicals with known health risks.
When choosing organic clothing and textiles, it helps to reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides, and in turn, protect the health and the planet.
It is easy to understand the hazards of such clothing on our skin, which is the largest organ of our body.
Some use the term organic informally, referring to organic clothes that is not processed with harsh chemicals and that comes from farms with eco-friendly practices. Others use the term more explicitly in reference that meets government standards for growing, processing and labelling.[1]
Over the past several decades the word organic has evolved to have a new meaning – a very specific technical and legal meaning. It is related to the way products are grown and processed using environmentally friendly methods. The goal of these methods is to maintain soil fertility, minimize pollution, and advance sustainable agricultural practices.
For an item to be organic, it must be grown and processed without the use of synthetic or artificial fertilizers, hormones, medications or chemicals. For an item to be labelled certified organic, the production and processing must be certified with an independent local or regional agency that has standards equal to or exceeding the national standards. These standards are designed to help consumers trust labels and to help producers offer products that meet market demands. The details of each certification program are different and as with all laws, there are loopholes that are often more easily taken advantage of by corporations and large institutions than by small farmers or fibre producers.[2]
According to the Canadian National Standard, "Organic agriculture is a holistic system of production designed to optimize the productivity and fitness of diverse communities within the agro ecosystem, including soil organisms, plants, livestock and people. The principle goal of organic agriculture is to develop productive enterprises that are sustainable and harmonious with the environment. [3]
"Certified Organic" means the item has been grown according to strict uniform standards that are verified by independent state or private organizations. Certification includes inspections of farm fields and processing facilities, detailed record keeping, and periodic testing of soil and water to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set.[4]
Clothing that is made from organically produced material implying produced through agricultural practices that do not make use of pesticides and other toxins is called organic clothing.
Organic clothing is the one that has been produced in a way that is less harmful to the environment than non-organic. As opposed to conventional clothing, organic clothing goes right from the farm through the manufacturing process without exposure to any harsh chemicals. Many manufactures of organic clothing are embracing the demand for organic products. Consumers and designers fuel the fire by being aware of health issues and making a conscious effort to be environmentally responsible.[5]
Cotton plants provide a fibre that is unique in durability, strength and absorbency. The use of cotton for fabric and clothing goes back at least 4,000 years, and evidence shows that it was cultivated in India, the Americas and ancient Egypt. Hemp, which has reportedly been cultivated since 4500 B.C.E., provides a fibre that is unmatched for its durability. The fabric from both plants contributes most of the material for today's organic clothing marketplace.
Today, cotton is one of the most genetically engineered crops in the world, and the long-term environmental effects of these modifications are still largely unknown.
Wool is one of nature's most unique masterpieces. It has been used for decades and is especially known for its durability and warmth. However, it has become somewhat of a forgotten fibre because it's commonly perceived as being heavy, itchy and scratchy. Organic wool originates from healthy sheep raised on an organic farm.[6]
HISTORY
For most of the human family's time on this planet, clothing was derived from natural organic sources such as animal skins and hides. With the invention of agriculture, plant sources gained prominence, with fabrics from cotton and hemp leading the way. However, the mainstream clothing industry relies upon millions of tons of pesticides for the production of cotton alone, thereby posing health and environmental hazards.
EVOLUTION
Until the first half of the 20th century, cultivation of most plant-based fabrics continued to be managed organically. With the introduction of the internal-combustion engine, chemical pesticides, synthetic fertilizers and the development of hybrid plants, the face of farming changed drastically, and the natural production of fabrics fell by the wayside.
The history of the organics movement in general, and organic farming in particular, began with a group of agricultural scientists and farmers, and later expanded to become a grassroots consumer cause. Initially, organic farmers were reacting to the industrialization of agriculture, which consumers were largely unaware of. It was not until the contrasts between organics and industrial farming became overwhelming that organics began to capture the attention of consumers.
The first half of the 20th century saw the introduction of the internal combustion engine, which led to tractors and other mechanized farm equipment. Research in plant breeding led to the production of hybrid seeds. Nitrogen fertilizer - first synthesized in the mid-1800s – became commonly available. There were over 3,000,000 tractors by 1950. As a result, fields grew bigger and farm crops became more specialized to make more efficient use of machinery. In England in the 1920s, a few individuals in agriculture began to speak out against these farming trends.[7]
After World War II, large-scale irrigation, fertilization, and the use of pesticides became common practice. In particular, two chemicals that had been produced for use in warfare were put to use in farming. Ammonium nitrate, used in munitions, became an abundantly cheap source of nitrogen. Soon, new pesticides appeared: DDT (Dichloro-Diphenyl-Trichloroethane), which had been used to control disease-carrying insects around troops, became a general insecticide, launching the era of widespread pesticide use.
In 1944, an international campaign called the Green Revolution was launched in Mexico with private funding from the US. It encouraged the development of hybrid plants, chemical controls, large-scale irrigation, and heavy mechanization in farms around the world. During the 1950s, sustainable agriculture was a topic of scientific interest, but research concentrated on developing new chemical approaches. In the US, J.I. Rodale began to popularize the term and methods of organic farming, particularly to consumers through promotion of organic gardening. The International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) began in France in 1972 for the purpose of sharing information on organic farming all over the world. IFOAM also hoped to counter the impact of chemically-based agriculture on the environment and peasant societies.[8]
IMPORTANCE OF BEING ORGANIC
SOME THREATENING FACTS
A cotton t-shirt blended with polyester can release approximately one quarter of its weight in air pollutants and ten times its weight in carbon dioxide. Each organic fibre t-shirt we buy eliminates the use of 150 grams of agricultural chemicals. It takes approximately one pound of chemicals to grow three pounds of conventional cotton, while organic cotton is grown chemical free.[9]
THE HEALTH FACTOR
We may not be aware of the toxic substances that we expose ourselves to at home. Our health and our quality of life can be adversely affected by cleaning products, pesticides, house paint, and certain building products. Asbestos, composite decking, fiberglass, lead, PVC and other synthetics can still be found in many products. Young children are particularly susceptible to these chemicals. Knowing what chemicals to avoid can help to avoid the biggest contributors to toxicity in our daily living.
Most people suffering from skin dermatological conditions can comfortably wear garments made from organic fibres such as organic cotton or bamboo. Depending on the level of skin sensitivity, one may need to wear hypoallergenic, dye-free clothing. Bamboo Fabric is naturally antimicrobial, and will not harm those with skin sensitivities. No chemicals have been added to achieve this value added benefit.
One of the biggest culprits is a class of compounds called VOCs, (volatile organic compounds). Other household products like aerosol disinfectants are not only toxic to us, but they deplete the ozone layer. We may be familiar with the hazards involved with mixing chemicals; when ammonia is combined with chlorine bleach, a toxic gas is released which can seriously damage the respiratory system.[10]
BIODEGRADABLE
There are many alternative products on the market today – organic products which are effective, biodegradable, and non-toxic. These products can be divided into a few major categories – organic cleaning products, organic pest control, organic furniture (mattresses and seating), and organic home improvement products (which will include things like bed sheets, paints, and decorative items).
FOR A STRONGER NEXT GENERATION
Our children are our future, and raising an organic child has never been easier. Organic children's clothing, bedding, baby food, and personal care products are growing in popularity, in part because recent studies have identified toxins which pose real hazards to little bodies. Many parents who worry about their children's health also worry about environmental hazards, and want to do something about both.[11]
TOXICITY PROFILE OF AN ORGANIC CLOTH
Few people realize that most of the toxicity in organic garments today comes from the wet processing of the fabric before it is used in production. This is simply because the current processing standards for organic materials still allow chemicals to be used in the wet processing steps. Both "low-impact" and "eco-friendly" dye processes are predominantly chemical processes. The organic material should be processed naturally, without the use of chemicals. Below is a chart showing the source of toxicity for an organic t-shirt using chemical process.
Altogether, there are about 6 "wet processing" steps used to produce textiles after the fiber is grown. Even though dyeing is just one of these steps, No chemicals are used at any stage of the process. The conventional textile production process uses approximately 8000 chemicals throughout the process to produce a final textile product. The typical textile process steps are:
Sizing
- Scouring
- Bleaching
- Dyeing & Printing
- Dye Fixing
- Finishing
Only natural sources such as flowers, roots, stems, etc are used in all six steps in the process.[12]
CRITERIA FOR BEING ORGANIC
According to GOTS, key criteria for processing and manufacturing include:
• At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fibre products and must to be clearly identified
• All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability
• Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes
• The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals
• Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching)
• Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited
• Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited
• Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted, any polyester must be post-consumer recycled from 2014 onwards)
• All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimise waste and discharges
• Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.
• Packaging material must not contain PVC. From 1st January 2014 onwards any paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be post-consumer recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC
• Technical quality parameters must be met (s.a. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values)
• Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products as well as accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues
• Minimum social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) must be met by all processors. [13]
PROCESSES IN ORGANIC CLOTHING
The garment manufacturing industry is huge internationally and notoriously chemically-intensive and polluting. All stages of the conventional garment manufacturing process, except for the spinning process, rely upon a blizzard of synthetic chemicals, many of which are toxic. Polyvinyl alcohol is often used as a sizing to make the yarn weavable. Harsh chlorine is used to bleach and whiten. Fabric is scoured, cleaned and de-pigmented with sodium hydroxide, heavy metal salts and cerium compounds in preparation for dying. Dyes often contain heavy metal impurities, chrome mordant and formaldehyde-fixing agents. Some Azo-based dyes (Azo dye group III A1 and A2) shed carcinogenic aryl amines.
Finishing is the last step of the manufacturing process and it is here that the last remnants of the natural fibers are paved over with harsh chemicals. A urea-formaldehyde product is frequently applied to cotton fabrics to reduce shrinkage and wrinkling. Cotton is a fibre designed by nature to absorb and heat is used to lock finishes into the cotton fibers. When heat is applied, these chemical finishes expand and are permanently bonded into the fabric preventing them from being removed by washing or dry cleaning. People concerned about chemical overloads should be "anti-" any garment that is advertised as being anti-shrink, anti-bacterial, anti-microbial, anti-static, anti-odor, anti-flame, anti-wrinkle, anti-stain, or any of the other "anti-" easy care garment finishes. Easy care finishes for cotton garments are achieved through chemicals, most of which will not wash out. That "new clothes smell" found in most conventional clothing chains is because of the chemical finishes used on their clothing.
Natural fiber organic clothing such as organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, and organically grown wools that have been grown organically and manufactured using organic and eco-friendly manufacturing processes. Both the growing and the manufacturing phases are critical to produce healthy clothing. If the finest natural organic fibers are smothered during manufacturing with harsh and toxic chemicals, the result will still be wrapping the body like a toxic sushi and allowing these chemicals to be introduced through theskin into thebody. In a sense, the skin eats the clothing because chemicals in the clothing do pass through the skin into the blood system and throughout the internal organs. For babies and young children, this is even more of a concern because they often put their clothing in their mouths and suck on their clothing.
Another area of problems for the chemically sensitive is the presence of elastic and latex in clothing. Some people are very sensitive to direct contact with elastic or latex. This is especially a problem in intimate garments where the waistband and leg openings have elastic or latex that comes into direct contact with the skin. This is why some manufacturers wrap their elastic or latex within organic cotton.
New clothing wrapped in white tissue or packaged in some plastics can cause discomfort and health problems for the very chemically sensitive. White tissue wrapping paper has usually been treated with harsh chlorine bleach and colored tissues have been soaked in strong chemical dyes. Packaging and wrapping plastic is made from petrochemicals and some plastics off-gas fumes that can causes physical discomfort. New shipping boxes are bonded and held together with adhesives which can off-gas into clothing being shipped inside. [14]
ORGANIC COTTON
Conventional cotton uses 25 percent of the world's insecticides and 10 percent of the world's pesticides (more than $2.6 billion worth). Organic cotton eliminates the use of chemical pesticides, fertilizer, defoliants and other toxins. Currently, organic cotton makes up only 0.06 percent of the world's cotton supply, but supply and demand are growing rapidly, spurred by the European market and U.S.-based companies like Nike, which has committed to using 5 percent organic cotton by 2013. The Organic Exchange's goal is to have 10 percent of the world's cotton supply be organic by 2013. Regardless of its organic status, growing cotton is extremely water intensive. Many companies now use organic cotton. In the outdoor industry, Sportif, Nike, Prana and Patagonia are the leaders.[ 15]
ORGANIC WOOL
Conventional wool is sometimes called an environmental fiber because it is annually renewable. But conventional wool production doesn't take into consideration overgrazing of sheep, farming practices that may damage the land, and toxic pesticide dips or sprays frequently used on fiber sheep. Many conventionally farmed Australian merino and some New Zealand merino undergo mulesing, which means having a saucer-sized hunk of skin and flesh hacked out from the hindquarters to prevent the growth of wool there and possible subsequent infection by blowfly eggs. Blowfly egg infestation (flystrike) will kill the merino. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) have launched a boycott campaign, and the Australian government has stepped up its efforts to develop a non-surgical alternative.
Certified organic wool assures sheep are treated in an ethical manner and helps promote organic agriculture (sheep are fed organic feed, and land is farmed according to organic farming standards). Organic wool eliminates synthetic pesticides both on the land and on the animal. Patagonia is using organic wool, and Smart Wool is considering organic. Icebreaker and iZWool both state their wool is sustainably harvested.[ 15]
ORGANIC DYES
Very simply, an organic dye is created from sources that are found in nature, such as plant, wood and nuts. Only natural sources such as flowers, roots, stems which is grown without any pesticides can be used in the processes. The herbs used in dye process are purported to have various medicinal properties. The process attempts to keep these medicinal properties alive on the textiles.
Dye fixation can be accomplished using natural and harmless resources like harda (high medicinal value), sumack leaves, pomegranate, begar, dhavdi, etc.
Innovative process is capable of dying all natural textiles such as cotton, jute, linen and silk as both woven and knit fabrics. Fully sustainable process uses the solid and liquid waste as manure and to irrigate soil used to produce natural herbs. Mass production quantities may result in lower cost than existing natural textiles processes. [17]
LOGWOOD: Referred to as Natural Black #1, logwood requires a mordant to develop the color and to fix the organic dye. With a tin mordant, logwood gives hues in the reddish violet to the purple range. With an alum mordant, it gives purple to blue-purple colors. With chrome, one generally gets a blue toned charcoal hue. With iron, the color is grey to black and typically comes with a bluish tint. Logwood dyes all natural fibers, such as cotton, silk and wool. A major product produced from logwood is hematine.
HEMATINE: As mentioned above, hematine is produced from logwood and therefore is also referred to as Natural Black #1. There are several grades of hematine, but all are used to dye natural fibers. Hematine's most specific use is for the dying of silk to be used in medical sutures.
WALNUT CRYSTALS: Naturally brown in color, walnut crystals are produced from peat. Its chemical name is Natural Brown #12 and walnut crystals are used in dying various natural fibers and paper. Walnut inks are especially used to make paper look aged.
FUSTIC: Commonly called Natural Yellow #11, fustic is used for dying many natural fibers, and is commonly used for dying leather.
BRAZILWOOD: Brazilwood generates an earthy red tone that can be readily used for dying leather and other natural fibers. Generally called Natural Red #24, brazilwood requires a mordant like all natural dyes. Alum will generate the red colors while a tin mordant will produce a pink shade[16]
MADDER:
Madder's leafy tops sprawl untidily over the ground and their clusters of tiny yellow-green flowers are insignificant. Yet, to the dyer, madder is a miracle of color because its roots contain alizarin, one of the most valuable red dye pigments ever known.
HARITAKi:
Haritaki is so named because it grows in the abode of Hara (the Himilayas); it is green (harita) in the natural colour and it cures (harayet) all diseases.
CUTCH, CUTECHU: The dyestuff known as cutch or catechu is an extract usually made from the heartwood of Acacia catechu, a small thorny tree. It yields orange-brown dyes that are rich in tannin, and was used in India calico printing before its introduction to the West. It is used mainly to dye cotton and silk.
INDIGO:
Indigo's ability to produce an extensive range of beautiful blue shades has made it the most successful dye plant ever known. The commercially available indigo powder is made from the leaves of Indigofera tinctoria, which requires hot, sunny and humid growing conditions to flourish.
TURMERIC:
Turmeric belongs to the same family as ginger. Sometimes known as "Indian saffron", it is the source of the familiar yellow color of many Asian curry dishes. Both the culinary spice and the dye are obtained from its root. Turmeric was and still is used for textile painting and printing in India
ONION:
The outer skin of this common vegetable is one of the most useful and readily available dyestuffs. It is ideal for the novice dyer's first experiments since it reliably produced rich, vibrant shades of orange, yellow, rust and brown on all fibers, and does not impart any odor to the dyed material.
POMEGRANATE:
The edible pomegranate fruit yields a ocher-yellow dye and the skins are rich in tannin, which improves colorfastness. The pomegranate dye lacks brilliance so it is often mixed with turmeric root to make the color brighter. In India and Southeast Asia it is used as a mordant and a dye.[17]
These alternatives to conventional dye processes eliminate the use of thousands of chemicals, many of which contribute to high levels of toxicity in the environment.
TOWARDS A GREENER PLANET
SAVING ENERGY
Organic systems use 50% less energy. A study by Canadian scientists has found that diversified organic farm systems cut energy use by up to one-half. The research compared energy use on high-input conventional farms with reduced input conservation farming systems and organic systems. It found that total energy use was highest on the farms using high levels of inputs such as nitrogen fertiliser and pesticides, while energy use was 50% lower under organic management.According to the team, most of the energy savings came from the absence of conventional fertilisers on the organic farms.
The team kept detailed records of energy use for the three different systems across three crop rotations. In addition to the absolute levels of energy used, the research also calculated each system's energy use efficiency, measured in terms of the amount of grain plus forage produced for each unit of energy input. The Organic Exchange is a non-profit business organization focused on creating environmental and social benefits through the expansion of organic agriculture. The first project focuses on transitioning 10% of the world's supply and demand of cotton to organic cotton within 10 years. [18]
The Organic Exchange farm development program is connected to over 80 organic farming projects in India, China, North America, Turkey and countries in Africa and South America. Many of these projects are also connected to some level of manufacturing (industrial and artisanal). The program works on access to resources and farming system, on crops markets as well as regional markets. [19]
ADVANTAGE OVER NON ORGANIC CLOTHES
The good news is that now even major brands have considered producing environmental friendly clothes and it's a great way adding to your green lifestyle.
NON ALLERGIC
The first and probably the biggest advantage of organic clothing is that it is not allergic. Basically, artificial coloring and other chemicals used to dye clothes to give them the desired look is the process used for inorganic clothing but with organic clothing this is not the case. Organic clothing does not involve such processes. The materials from which organic clothing is usually made does not require the clothes to go through all these processes hence, people with allergies can easily wear them without any worries.
ECO FRIENDLY
Not only saving the planet is the concept behind going green but there are a number of advantages that a person can reap with a green lifestyle. It is bio degradable.
DURABLE
Another major advantage of organic clothing is that it is better in quality compared to inorganic clothing. Due to the heavy processing that inorganic clothing go through, they lose their quality and fade off soon. The case however, with organic clothing is different. Organic clothing materials do not go under heavy processes therefore they don't lose their quality.
SUSTAINABILITY
As the contrast between modern industrial farming and organic principles became increasingly evident, interest in the reestablishment of sustainable agricultural practices took root. By the early 1970s, a growing market for organically grown food was firmly established, and the production of naturally grown fabrics soon followed suit. As of 2001, cotton was being grown organically in at least 18 countries. Still, this accounts for less than 1% of cotton production worldwide.
Sustainable attributes
Organic farming aims to create self-stabilizing agro-ecosystems with the help of suitable crop rotations, mixed cropping systems, choice of adapted varieties, and application of organic fertilizers and manures. Thus the organic production system tries to minimize external inputs and to make use of farm-own resources (e.g. green manures, biomass, organic fertilizers, and botanical preparations).
As a result of these combined production practices organic agriculture strives to realize the following ecological and socio-economic benefits:
• Less soil and water contamination
• Increase soil fertility and biodiversity
• Fewer health hazards for farmers, manufacturers, and consumers
• Contribution to the mitigation of climate change by avoiding energy intensive mineral fertilizers which, therefore, minimizes the emission of the green house gas N20 from fields and increases soil organic matter contents
• Increased income for farmers due to organic premiums and reduced input costs
• Reduced vulnerability of farmers' livelihoods:
- by avoiding debts for the purchase of external inputs
- by diversifying the farm through crop rotation and intercropping. [20]
DISADVANTAGES OVER NON ORGANIC CLOTHES
NON AVAILABILITY OF NATURAL RESOURCES
Natural resources like dyes etc are not easily available in the market. Deforestation and urbanization are major factors for the scarcity. Cultivation of herbals has to be increased byt a huge margin to get rid of this dilemma.
TROUBLES IN CULTIVATING THE RESOURCES WITHOUT THE APPLICATION OF PESTICIDES.
Protecting the crops from the insects without the use of pesticides and chemicals is a tough job. Natural substitutes for the fertilizers have to come in place for a rich harvest.
LESS NUMBER OF PRODUCERS IN THE MARKET
There are not much manufacturers focused on Organic Clothing compared to the non-organic clothing. It is in its emerging form.
PRICE CONCERNS
Organic products are comparatively high than non-organic. It's not economic to replace the low cost chemicals/pesticides with natural substances.
The reason why the price of the organic textile is costly is, the dyes and yarns used in making organic cloths are costlier, moreover, manufacturers need to pay advance to the seller, as the buyers for the organic products are a very few. The inventory cost is more and also training the employees with respect to the organic products also weighs heavily on the pocket of producers
Organic clothes are priced between Rs 140 and Rs 1800 at Zeme Organics, whereas the prices for organic infants thermals at Rs 59 and jumpsuits at Rs 400. Women thermals are priced at Rs 199. Organic sweat shirts are available for Rs 1000, and jackets for Rs 2300.
TOP 10 GOOD REASONS TO GO ORGANIC
ORGANIC PRODUCTS MEET STRINGENT STANDARDS
Organic certification is the public's assurance that products have been grown and handled according to strict procedures without persistent toxic chemical inputs.
PROTECT FUTURE GENERATIONS
The average child receives four times more exposure than an adult to at least eight widely used cancer-causing pesticides.
ORGANIC PRODUCTION REDUCES HEALTH RISKS
Many EPA-approved pesticides were registered long before extensive research linked these chemicals to cancer and other diseases. Organic agriculture is one way to prevent any more of these chemicals from getting into the air, earth and water that sustain us.
ORGANIC FARMS RESPECT OUR WATER RESOURCES
The elimination of polluting chemicals and nitrogen leaching, done in combination with soil building, protects and conserves water resources.
ORGANIC FARMERS BUILD HEALTHY SOIL
Soil is the foundation of the food chain. The primary focus of organic farming is to use practices that build healthy soils.
ORGANIC FARMERS WORK IN HARMONY WITH NATURE
Organic agricultural respects the balance demanded of a healthy ecosystem: wildlife is encouraged by including forage crops in rotation and by retaining fence rows, wetlands, and other natural areas.
ORGANIC PRODUCERS ARE LEADERS IN INNOVATIVE RESEARCH
Organic farmers have led the way, largely at their own expense, with innovative on-farm research aimed at reducing pesticide use and minimizing agriculture's impact on the environment.
ORGANIC PRODUCERS STRIVE TO PRESERVE DIVERSITY
The loss of a large variety of species (biodiversity) is one of the most pressing environmental concerns. The good news is that many organic farmers and gardeners have been collecting and preserving seeds, and growing unusual varieties for decades.
ORGANIC FARMING HELPS KEEP RURAL COMMUNITIES HEALTHY
USDA reported that in 1997, half of U.S. farm production came from only 2% of farms. Organic agriculture can be a lifeline for small farms because it offers an alternative market where sellers can command fair prices for crops.
ORGANIC ABUNDANCE – FOODS AND NON-FOODS ALIKE!
Now every food category has an organic alternative. And non-food agricultural products are being grown organically – even cotton, which most experts felt could not be grown this way.
APPLICATIONS
1. Baby clothes -
Organic baby clothing has becoming a lot more well-known these days. We have seen an extensive use of organic baby clothing. This is due to the fact that babies are more sensitive as compared to grownups
Baby suits baby caps
2. Womens wear
Tee shirt top button top skirt one- piece
3. Mens wear
Raglan t-shirt cargo pants track suit
4. Yoga wear- Organic clothes for exercise. It is a well known fact that organic clothes are comfortable, absorb moisture, and draw heat away from your body. Thus, opting for 100% organic clothes while going for the exercise could sooth you and nature as well.
5. Herb infused organic clothing -
Each strand of yarn is infused with hand-picked natural ingredients such as pomegranate seeds, turmeric, lemon, basil, etc...And as you wear these garments, infused herbs could exhale into your skin, making you feel refreshed, rejuvenated, and jovial.
OTHER USES
Home furnishings
Towels cushion covers bed spreads curtains table covers
Toys
Stationary items
Note cards
Personal care items[21]
QUALITY STANDARDS
Different countries have different standards regarding organic certification. In some countries, the standards are set and overseen by the government. In other countries, the standards are set by a non-profit organization or even a private company. [22]
GOTS- GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARDS
| Maintaining the integrity of organic fibres from farm gate to final product, the Global Organic Textile Standards are the most recognised international benchmark by which organic textiles standards are assessed. By ensuring full product traceability, strictly limiting the use of synthetic accessories and chemicals inputs and by setting tough quality standards and social criteria, GOTS aims to ensure that the expectations of the most demanding organic textile consumers are met. |
Global Organic Textile Standards are a partnership between the Soil Association, the Japanese Organic Cotton Association,the Organic Trade Association (US) and the International Association of Natural Textile industry (Germany)[13].
IFOAM- INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION OF ORGANIC AGRICULTURE MOVEMENTS
| IFOAM is the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements, which benchmarks organic standards and certification worldwide. The International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movements (IFOAM) was |
established in 1972 to support and promote organic agriculture by creating international organic agriculture standards and policies.
IFOAM has been an FAO-accredited international organization since 1997 and is an international NGO observer at Codex Alimentarius. IFOAM attempts to promote organic agricultural practices that benefit farmers, workers, traders, retailers and consumers. [23]
OTA- ORGANIC TRADE ASSOCIATION
Around the world, organizations such as OTA a member of the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (iFOAM). iFOAM is an international agricultural umbrella organization for the world's organic certification bodies. It currently unites more than 750 member organizations across 108 countries.
| |
Founded 20 years ago and touting 1500 business members, the OTA is working to expand its influence from agriculture and foods into organic textiles and body care products. The OTA invested five years developing "The American Organic Standards for Fiber Processing" standard and it is still undergoing modification and revision. They are currently on version 6 of the document.
In North America, for wool to be certified as organic by the Organic Trade Association (OTA), it must adhere to requirements that include:
•Livestock feed and forage used from the last third of gestation must be certified organic;
•Use of synthetic hormones and genetic engineering is prohibited;
•Use of synthetic pesticides (internal, external, and on pastures) is prohibited, and
•Producers must encourage livestock health through good cultural and management practices.
According to OTA, organic livestock management differs from non-organic management in at least two major ways:
•Sheep cannot be dipped in parasiticides (insecticides) to control external parasites such as ticks and lice
•Organic livestock producers are required to ensure that they do not exceed the natural carrying capacity of the land on which their animals graze.
The OTA standard defines four levels of organic labeling:
"100% Organic". All components are organically grown and certified, including the sewing threads, and all processes used to manufacture the garment conform to the processing requirements stated in the standard.
Organic. At least 95% (by weight) of the agricultural fibers are organically grown and all processing adheres to the environmental processing requirements given in the document;
Made with organic (specified fiber products). At least 70% (by weight) of the garment have been organically grown.
Less than 70% organically produced constituents. Maybe it has some organic fiber content, maybe not. All non-organic garment components may be processed and handled without regard to the OTA standards. What you see is what you get.
[24]
SOIL ASSOCIATION ORGANIC STANDARD
| The Soil Association in the U.K. developed organic textile standards in 2003 that were closely based on criteria established by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM). The Soil Association is accredited by IFOAM to certify organic producers and manufacturers according to IFOAM organic standards. |
IFOAM accreditation is awarded to certification bodies, such as the Soil Association, that use certification standards that meet the IFOAM Basic Standards.
The Soil Association organic textile standards use a two-tier label. To qualify for the highest organic standard, raw materials must contain at least 95% certified organic materials – excluding accessories such as buttons and zippers. Provided that they are not on the list of toxic and disallowed fibers and components, the remaining 5% of fibers can be non-organic or synthetic if sufficient organic fibers are not available. In this way, the favorite workout pants can contain 4% lycra and still be labeled "organic". GMO's and GM cotton are also banned in the Soil Association organic textile standard. [25]
| "Organic Guarantee" comes in the form of organic certification. Independent Organic Certifiers, who represent the consumers, audit producers regularly to verify that the organic standards are complied with. BioGro is New Zealand's leading organic certification agency. BioGro is one of 15 IFOAM Accredited Certifiers
USDA- UNITED STATED DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
The USDA National Organic Standard Seal not only shows your ongoing commitment to a healthy planet but assures consumers and buyers that your product meets stringent USDA organic certification requirements, thus will make your product more marketable and profitable.
As a farmer, retailer or other business, gaining USDA organic certification status is a savvy and ethical business move. However, it's not enough to simply claim "organic." One must make sure that the product is carrying the certified USDA Organic Seal.[25]
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The 'Institute for Market Transformation to Sustainability (MTS)' has developed the Unified Sustainable Textile Standard which attempts to establish standards that address what MTS calls the triple bottom line of economic, environmental and social performance for all aspects of the supply chain – from the acquisition of raw materials and natural resources through manufacturing to shipping and transportation of the finished garments and textiles.
The MTS Unified Sustainable Textile Standard examines garment sustainability in five areas of sustainability:
1. Safe for Public Health & Environment,
2. Renewable Energy & Energy Efficiency,
3. Material, Biobased or Recycled,
4. Facility or Company Based,
5. Reclamation, Sustainable Reuse & End of Life Management.
For each of these five areas of sustainability, the sustainable impact of the garment is monitored across 12 categories:
Global Warming,
Acidification,
Ozone Depletion,
Eutrophication,
Photochemical Smog,
Human Health,
Ecological Toxicity,
Fossil Fuel Depletion,
Habitat Alteration,
Criteria Air Pollutants,
Water Intake,
Solid and Hazardous Waste. [26]
DESIGNERS
INDIAN DESIGNERS
Digvijay Singh.
Joyjit Talukdar,
Anita Dongre,
Rahul Misra,
James Ferraira,
Aneeth Arora,
Jason and Anshu
INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS
Eviana Hartman
Miguel Adrover
Clodagh
TOP BRANDS
Most of us, when looking for organic, eco-friendly clothes, know enough to skip the mall; sustainable materials and mass-produced clothes with commercial appeal hardly ever overlap. These five companies, who have enough recognition and reputation to do whatever they want and yet are choosing to incorporate organic materials and sustainable practices into their most popular items.
TARGET
Chain stores that try to be all things to all people—selling clothes, shoes, groceries, electronics, home goods, outdoor gear, sports equipment, and anything else one can think of—generally don't have the motivation to offer green products, especially if it means raising the prices. But at Target, organic products show up everywhere, from bedsheets to baby clothes. And with their selection of women's cropped pants, pajama pants, tank tops, and tees.
H&M
H&M used 1,500 tons of organic cotton for its spring line—the company hopes to increase that amount by 50%.: H&M tends toward knockoffs of the season's biggest trends, and with green more popular than ever.
BANANA REPUBLIC
The other brands owned by its parent company Gap, Old Navy, and online shoe store Piperlime haven't been driving forces in the green movement, but that doesn't mean that Banana Republic the most luxurious of the four can't do its part. Boxes and bags include as much as 50% recycled material; stores are putting in place energy saving measures that cut usage by 41% last year; and 100% organic offerings include denim pants and cotton hoodies. A quick scan of the site showed plenty of products made with a small percentage of organic cotton (about 5%) alongside more conventional cotton (in as much as 90%). In the future, the store continues to increase the organic component and set a standard for its sibling companies.
NIKE
Although they got a bad reputation with the use of sweatshops, these days Nike has been doing more for the planet than you might think. In addition to the Reuse-a-Shoe program, which turns old sneakers into playground turf, and Nike Considered, an attempt to trim waste from production and switch to sustainable materials, the company offers 100% organic tees and hoodies, and aims to use at least 5% organic cotton in all its products by next year.
LEVI STRAUS & CO,
They are makers of organic cotton denim jeans. Conventional jeans makers uses harsh chemicals; stonewashing necessitates the mining of pumice. Instead, one can own a custom-designed heirloom that is pesticide-free.
PATAGONIA
Patagonia manufactures and sells fitness lifestyle clothing and technical sports clothing. Its mission statement is to "build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis." It's a leader in the organic clothing movement, and one of the largest purchasers of organic cotton. Beginning in 1996, all cotton products produced by Patagonia were 100 percent organic cotton, and the company has not wavered from that standard since. Other environmentally positive fabric Patagonia uses include chlorine-free wool, hemp, recycled nylon and polyester, and tencel lyocell, which is made from sustainable eucalyptus trees. [27]
PROJECT GREEN LABEL
Project Green Label makes contemporary clothes in a young style for men, women and teenagers. Its line includes tank-tops, T-shirts, hooded shirts and jackets and long-sleeve shirts. Most of the T-shirts are either solid colors or screen-printed with environmentally themed messages and designs. The brand utilizes organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, and recycled cotton in its fashions. Project Green Label donates a portion of its profits to tree planting by the Arbor Day Foundation in an effort to offset the carbon footprint of its manufacturing and shipping processes. [28]
BAMBOO BABY
Bamboo Baby is a relatively new organic baby and children's clothing brand from London. The brand's main goal is to have minimum negative impact on the environment" while offering simple, well-made clothing. Bamboo Baby exclusively uses bamboo cotton or 100 percent organic cotton, but bamboo cotton is its favored material because it's the fastest-growing sustainable textile crop, it's watered only by rain, and it's naturally organic. Bamboo cotton has a noticeably silky-soft texture---an added benefit in baby clothing. The company uses
electricity generated from renewable resources, runs an almost fully paper-free office and ships its products with recyclable and biodegradable packaging. [29]
MARKET SCENARIO
The clothing industry is a $7 trillion industry worldwide. It has been plagued with accusations of worker exploitation, child labor and environmental pollution. As a result, sales of organic clothing have been growing at a rate of at least 11% per year. Today, it is possible to be well dressed and environmentally conscious.
GROWTH IN 2010
Sales of organic products fell 5.9% to £1.73 billion in 2010 with the rate of decline slowing significantly throughout the year, according to our 2011 Organic Market Report. The UK retail market for organic textiles (including fully certified and products containing some fibre that was grown organically) grew 7.8% in 2010.
The shoppers spend more than £33 million a week on all things organic, and that 86% of households now buy organic products. Dairy products and fresh fruit and vegetables are the most popular categories, accounting for 30.5% and 23.2% of sales respectively. Multiple retail accounted for 72.3% of the organic market in 2010.[30]
WHEN THE MARKET WAS HIT BY RECESSION
Sales grow 35% for certified organic textile businesses: New research by Soil Association Certification reveals that the turnover of their organic textile licensees grew a whopping 35% in 2010, reaching £12million and defying the recession.
The outlook for 2011 is cautiously optimistic. Despite fragile consumer confidence in the wider economy, the report shows positive signs of resilience and recovery for the organic sector overall. The biggest success stories were sales of organic beef (up 18%), organic baby food (up 10.3%) and organic textiles (up 7.8%).
Although sales through multiple retailers fell by 7.7%, to £1.25 billion, Waitrose and Marks & Spencer anticipate modest growth for 2011, while Tesco, Sainsbury's, Morrisons and the Co-operative predict level sales year on year. [30]
THE INDIAN RETAIL SCENARIO
The concept of organic clothing is new to India; it gained popularity with the launch of designer Anita Dongre's label 'Grassroot', the eco-friendly clothing line showcased at Wills India Fashion Week.
Madura garments recently launched its new organic range for its brand Van Husen. Sports brands are not behind either, brands like Nike and Timberland, have started using organic fabrics, to some extent, in their sportswear. Also, international designers like Katherine Hamnett and Stella McCartney use organic cotton in their designer outfits. Levis is about to launch its organic line for male and female denims called Levis- Eco in India, which is already present in the US market. Bangalore based Zeme Organics and Ludhiana based UV&W are also retailing organic clothes through their exclusive brand outlets as well as multi-brand outlets, across India.
The domestic market for organic clothing opened in November 2008 when recession had a comparatively stable front. That was the best time to have a fresh approach towards a novel idea. [31]
MAJOR PLAYERS - ORGANIC CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS
Prizma Tekstil - Garments made out of certified cotton: rompers, baby suits, boxers, briefs, vests, camisoles, panties, slips, vests, t shirts. Certified organic cotton garments production for private labels by order.
Decent Exposures- Intimate garments pants, tees, nightshirts, Only some items are made of organic cotton
Natural High Lifestyle - A california lifestyle brand featuring clothing and accessories, designed in sustainable natural fabrics, to suit your progressive lifestyle.
Onno Textiles - Onno Textiles manufactures hemp, bamboo and organic cotton t-shirts. We also offer 100% organic cotton tote bags.
Zeme Organics - Zeme Organics Pvt.Ltd sells eco friendly organic cotton clothes under the brand name 'Zeme' in India and other countries.
Nixxi - Nixxi's aesthetic is fusing contrasts: structural lines with casually draped silhouettes; soft knits with textured wovens; simple refined classics with edgy contemporary cuts.
HeavyEco - Ethical prison wear for men. Recycled messenger bags, wallets & mac sleeves designed by Eastern European prisoners. Organic t-shirts & men's undies.
Katrinelli - katrinelli clothing is made from 100 % organic cotton. The dyeing, pressing, and stitching processes are performed exclusively in Germany. GOTS certified (Global Organic Textile Standards).
Aravore- The Aravore range is made from fairly traded organic cotton and organic merino wool.* Beautifully made and incredibly soft, each item has its own particular charm and identity. Soft, dreamy colors, simple shapes and extraordinary detailing have become Aravore's trademark.
Quail - It is about sustainability. It is always available throughout the year.
EcoZuzu- An eco-hip Californian brand with an eco-celebrity following. Ecozuzu clothing is all about being cool, comfy and conscious. An ideal mix of style and edge.
ParKo Textiles - Supplier of certified organic cotton clothing for women, men and children. Natural, organic cotton, yarns, fabrics and garments.
Natural Fashion - Natural Fashion is a family owned and operated organic textiles manufacturer. We specialize in custom clothing in large orders composed of organic cotton, hemp, bamboo and soy.
Organics for Kids - Organics for Kids - Beautiful clothes for babies and young children made exclusively from organic textiles. [32]
ORGANIC OUTLETS IN BANGALORE
1- Zeme Organic
#1025, Ground Floor, 13th Main, 3rd Cross, Indiranagar, Bangalore -560008 Karantaka.
2 - Pari's M2B
No 1029/41, 27A Main, 100 ft Ring Road, 9th blk, Jayanagar, Bangalore 560 069
Tel: 22452258
3 - Mother Earth
Intermediate Ring Raod, Domlur( OPP IBM), Bangalore
4 - Moming
73, 2nd Cross, 2nd Main,1st Block, Koramangala, Bangalore -560034,Tel: 41666614
5 - Studio Mom
475, 13th Main,3rd Block , Koramangala. Bangalore -560034. Tel: 25536640
CONCLUSION
Organic clothes were marked as uncomfortable and unappealing till recently, but now they are becoming a part of the fashion scene. Many designers are coming out with eco-friendly attire, which will add to their success. The style range is lesser than that of normal cotton clothes but its catching up as new designs and merchandise are being developed to keep pace with the rising demand for organic clothing.
Quality has a vital role than how apparel looks or functions, which also includes the way it affects the living environment, the planet and the quality of human life. This means working with such type of materials and processes that minimize the negative impact on environment and thereby relieve the overburdened planet. The awareness among consumers grows which is beyond any doubt that there is a promising future for organic clothing.
REFERENCES
1 http://www.organicitsworthit.org/get/organic-clothing-and-textiles
2 http://sheeptoshawl.com/organic-wool/
3 http://www.acornorganic.org/nationalstandards.html
4 http://www.howtogoorganic.com/
5 http://psychedelichippiefashion.blogspot.com/2010/12/go-green-wear-organic-clothing.html
6 http://www.ehow.com/about_5507162_history-organic-clothing.html
7 http://www.ehow.com/about_5507162_history-organic-clothing.html
8 http://www.organic-nature-news.com/organic-farming.html
9 http://www.thegreenzebra.org/EAC/Resources.html
10 http://www.organic-nature-news.com/organic-home-products.html
11 http://www.organic-nature-news.com/organic-home-products.html
12 http://www.truly-organic-clothing.com/files/natural-dye-process.php
13 http://www.global-standard.org/the-standard/general-description.html
14 http://www.organiclifestyle.com/20081217128/articles/are-your-clothes-becoming-intolerable/menu-id-194.html
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16 http://www.truly-organic-clothing.com/files/natural-dye-process.php
17 http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CBgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tenfoldorganic.com%2Ffiles%2Fdye-materials.html&ei=nS7dTdffAoaqvQPk--y4Dw&usg=AFQjCNHggz5Da1OVDXbHOM43hO0rAQfa7Q
18 http://www.soilassociation.org/News/NewsItem/tabid/91/ArticleId/2131/Organic-systems-use-50-less-energy.aspx
19 http://www.ecofashionworld.com/Organizations/Organic-Exchange.html
20 http://organicexchange.org/oecms/images/stories/publications/Beginners_Guide_To_Sustainable_Fibers-SAMPLE.pdf
21 http://www.organicfabricsindia.com/index.php/about-organic-fabrics/
22 http://www.soilassociation.org/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=vP8iTdv4xUI%3D&tabid=1332
23 http://www.nuiorganics.com/index.php?page=whyOrganic
24 http://www.apparelbuilder.com/Articles.asp?ID=183
25 http://organicclothing.blogs.com/my_weblog/2006/04/certified_organ.html
26 http://organicclothing.blogs.com/my_weblog/2006/05/sustainable_clo.html
27 http://organicharvestkafe.com/organicfashion.html
28 http://www.ehow.com/list_6633689_list-organic-clothing-brands.html
29 http://www.ehow.com/list_6633689_list-organic-clothing-brands.html
30 http://www.soilassociation.org/Businesses/Marketinformation/tabid/116/Default.aspx
31 http://retail.franchiseindia.com/articles/Retail-Trends/New-Concepts/Environmental-issues-now-on-the-sleeves-233/33 http://www.ecobusinesslinks.com/organic_clothing_manufacturers.htm
32 http://www.organicsforkids.com/
33 http://retail.franchiseindia.com/articles/Retail-Trends/New-Concepts/Environmental-issues-now-on-the-sleeves-233/
